Nürnberg Altstadt

Nuremberg (German: Nürnberg) is a city in Franconia; it is Franconia's largest city, which makes it the economic, social and cultural center of Franconia. It is situated on the Pegnitz River and the Main-Danube Canal.

Understand

When people think of Nuremberg, they usually think of gingerbread, toys, Christmas, the Reich Party Rally Grounds or the Nuremberg Trials (see World War II in Europe and Holocaust remembrance). But the old town of Nuremberg in the shadow of the towering imperial castle is more than that. Gothic churches, splendid patricians' houses and romantic corners and spots. An atmosphere of lively co-existence between medieval and modern, between the past and the present, prevails in Nuremberg. In medieval and early modern times, Nuremberg was a rich center for trade and early industry and the first railway in what is now Germany was not built to link Nuremberg and Fürth by mere chance. Despite World War II destroying much of it, the former wealth is still visible. And with its position on the crossroads of two major Autobahn and railway routes, the old saying "Nürnberger Tand geht in alle Land" (stuff from Nuremberg goes everywhere) still rings true.

Orientation

Nuremberg's old town (Altstadt) is encircled by massive city walls (Stadtmauer), which will therefore be the first thing you encounter whichever way you approach. The town within is divided by the river Pegnitz. The northern half, Sebalder Altstadt, clusters around St Sebald Church and the Town Hall, and is dominated by the Imperial Castle. The southern half, Lorenzer Altstadt, clusters around the Lorenzkirche. Several charming little bridges criss-cross the river. The Transportation Museum lies just outside the walls and can easily be combined with an exploration of the old town.

The city walls were originally 5 km long, with five gates: Laufer, Spittler-, Frauen-, Neu- and Tiergärtner Tor. From the 13th to the 16th century they were continually strengthened, and helped the city withstand all attacks during this era. Nearly 4 km are still standing, with the only major gaps being on the southeast side between the main station and Rathenauplatz. The city moat, which was never filled with water, still exists in good condition for about 2 km along the south side. You might want to swerve clear of the alley between Färbertor and Spittlertor (Plärrer), as it's the red light district. A complete walking circuit of the walls will take about 90 mins, but there's no particular need to, as you'll see it from multiple angles wherever you wander in town. The most attractive sections are where the walls bridge the river on the west side ("Westtorgraben"), and the south entrance from the railway and bus stations at Frauentor.

Between the two halves of the old town, take time to follow the course of the river Pegnitz, crossing and re-crossing its charming little bridges, surrounded by half-timbered buildings. From east to west these include Heubrücke crossing the larger river island, Fleischbrücke, the smaller island with the flea market and Henkersteg, then Kettelsteg and the bridging walls as the river flows out of the old town. A riverbank walk continues west, eventually to St John's, see "Further out".

See

For all but the briefest visits, you'll do well to buy the Nürnberg + Fürth Card. This is valid for two days and gives free admission to over 50 museums and attractions, and free travel on all public transport in Zone A of Nuremberg and Fürth. You also get discounts in many theatres, shops, and the IMAX cinema. The card price for adults is €28. Children aged 5 to 11 pay €5, children under 5 are free. See city website and tourist board for more details.

If so many museums sounds daunting, a day-ticket just for the municipal museums is €9 - worth buying if you only see two, as the individual adult entry price is €6. Buy them at the first museum you visit. So two such days would cost €18, cheaper than the N+F card and your days needn't be consecutive, but it wouldn't include public transport. As of early 2018, these museums (all listed below) include Albrecht Dürer's House, Fembohaus City Museum, Toy Museum, Museum of Industrial Culture, Documentation Center at the Reich Party Rally Grounds, and Memorium Nuremberg Trials. The day-ticket only includes the regular collection, not exhibitions, tours and events, and doesn't include the Kaiserburg.

The following listings are arranged geographically, north to south through the Old Town then beyond. But if you want to focus on buildings of a particular architectural style, visit this site.

Sebalder Altstadt

Top sights in Sebalder Altstadt, the northern half of town, include the Imperial Castle, the collection of old houses nearby, and St Sebald church. A suggested itinerary is to start with the castle, then admire the collection of old buildings around Tiergärtnerplatz and the Castle Quarter or Burgviertel. Some of these are original, having survived the war, others were rebuilt. Pilatushaus was home to a wealthy merchant. The street Fuell with its sandstone houses is a typical merchant's street. The craftsmen lived in timber-framed houses, many of which have been restored in Weissgerbergasse. More timber-framed houses can be seen in Obere and Untere Kraemersgasse. In Untere Kraemersgasse 16 you can often look into the tiny courtyard. Near here are the Künstbunker, and Albrecht Dürer's house, listed below. Continue south down Bergstraße to St Sebald and the old town hall, which remains a working building. (Its dungeons re-open to visitors in summer 2018.)

• ⊙Nuremberg Castle (Nürnberger Burg) (Take tram 4 to Tiergärtnertor or bus 36 to Burgstraße. No visitor parking!), ☎ +49 911 2446 590. Every day Apr-Sep 09:00-18:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-16:00. The Nuremberg Castle is the rambling fortification that dominates the old town from the higher ground at its north-west corner. It’s actually three separate entities, with interior walls and gates built not against invaders but each other. Castle €7, concessions €6, under-18s free; combi with Cadolzburg Castle €12 (conc €10). (updated Jan 2018)
  • ⊙Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg). The Imperial Castle proper is grouped around the inner castle courtyard. This is where you enter and buy your ticket, which covers the entire complex. Medieval rulers – the Holy Roman Emperors – didn’t have a fixed abode but held court from place to place. When in Nuremberg they used these buildings, which include the Palas, Chapel, and Bower (Imperial Castle Museum), all overlooked by the Sinwell (meaning “perfectly round”) Tower. The Tiefer Brunnen (“deep well”) can only be explored by guided tour. 
  • ⊙Burgrave’s Castle. Adjacent east is the Burgrave’s Castle, of which you can visit the Pentagonal Tower and the Walburgis Chapel. The Burgrave was a hereditary ruler who resided permanently here. He had wide-ranging powers over justice, tax, trade and so on, but these conflicted with the powers of the Emperor and of the growing city, so horrendous feuds were inevitable. (The Burgrave's other castle, Cadolzburg, some 25 km west, can be visited on a combi ticket.) 
  • East again are buildings erected by the city itself. The Luginsland (watchtower) was built to spy into the Burgrave’s Castle. Next door, the Imperial Stables were the city’s corn granary; they’re now a Youth Hostel, see "Sleep" listing. The gardens around the Castle complex, only open in summer, are free to enter.
• ⊙Albrecht Dürer's House, Albrecht-Dürer-Straße 39, ☎ +49 911 2312568. Tu W F 10:00-17:00, Th to 20:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00. M only open July-Sept & for Christmas Market, 10:00-17:00. The house in which the painter Albrecht Dürer lived and worked from 1509 until 1528. Representative of a wealthy house of that period. Exhibition about life in the house and the way Dürer worked. €6. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙Toy Museum (Spielzeugmuseum), Karlstraße 13-15, ☎ +49 911 2313260. Tu-F 10:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00; Mon only during Christmas Market 10:00-17:00; extended hours during Toy Fair. Nuremberg was one of the centres of the German toy industry. The exhibition shows wooden and metal toys, dolls and doll houses, model railways and modern toys. €6. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙Fembohaus Citymuseum, Burgstraße 15, ☎ +49 911 2312595. Tu-F 10:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00. A merchant's house built about 1600, in late Renaissance style. Exhibition about the history of the city. €6. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙Museum Tucherschloss and Hirsvogelsaal, Hirschelgasse 9-11 (Tram 8 or U2/U3 Rathenauplatz and Bus 36 Innerer Laufer Platz), ☎ +49 911 231 5421 (information), +49 911 231 8355 (cashier). Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-17:00. The Tuchers and the Hirsvogels were wealthy trading families. This castle built between 1533 and 1544 shows their life in that era, with several original features. adults €6, concessions €3, with Nuremberg pass €1.50, further pricing available. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙Art Bunker (Kunstbunker), Obere Schmiedgasse 52 (buy tickets from Albrecht Dürer House or at TICs), ☎ +49 911 2270 66. Only by guided tour. Daily (in German only) at 14:30; also F at 17:30, Sa 11:30 & 17:30, Su 11:30. Part of the labyrinth of tunnels underneath the city, but separate from the Felsengänge tour (listed above). During World War II this and other bunkers were converted into safe storage for the city's art treasures, with temperature and humidity controls and extra security. Frequent tours in German, but tours can be organised for up to 25 in English, French, Italian, Spanish and Czech. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙St Sebald Church (Sebalduskirche) (opposite Town Hall on Albrecht Dürer Platz). Daily Apr - Dec: 09:30-18:00, Jan-Mar: 09:30-16:00. Built in Romanesque style from the 13th century, with many later Gothic and Baroque additions, and now part of the Evangelical or Lutheran church of Germany, St Sebaldhus is the focus of the north-side old town. In the centre of the church a wooden monument stands over the saint's grave, carved with scenes of his life. The church organ is a modern replacement of the famous original, destroyed by bombing in WW2. (updated Dec 2017)

Lorenzer Altstadt

Top sights in Lorenzer Altstadt, the southern half of town, include Lorenzkirche, the Way of Human Rights, the Germanische Nationalmuseum and the Neues Museum.

• Natural History Museum (Naturhistorisches Museum), 8 Marientorgraben (East edge of old town; U2 to Wöhrder Wiese or Tram 8 to Marientor), ☎ +49 911 227 970. Mon-Thur & Sun 10:00-17:00, Fri 10:00-21:00, closed Sat. The ground floor is the ethnology collection: masks from the South Seas, Costa Rican culture, a Berber tent from Morocco, and strange garb of the Nivchi, a Siberian people. The upper floor covers geology, prehistory and archaeology. Adult 5€, children 6-17 3€. (updated Dec 2017)
• Tower of the Senses (Turm der Sinne), Westtor (West edge of old town, take U1 to Weißer Turm or Tram 4 or 6 to Hallertor), ☎ +49 911 944 3281. Tue-Fri 13:00-17:00, Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. Interactive science museum with emphasis on human perception Adults 8€. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙St Lawrence Church (Lorenzkirche). M-Sa 09:00-17:00, Su 13:00-16:00. Mostly built in the 15th century and now part of the Evangelical or Lutheran church of Germany, Lorenzkirche forms the focus of the south-side old town. It's dominated within by the 18m tall Tabernacle, a gothic spire made circa 1493 by Adam Kraft, with himself as one of three figures holding it up. (Find more of his work across the river in St Sebaldus, in the Germanische Nationalmuseum, and in Ulm.) Note also the stained glass windows, and Veit Stoss' "Annunciation" (Engelsgruss) suspended high over the altar. (updated Dec 2017)
• Nassauhaus (opposite St Lawrence Church). The oldest building in the city - the cellars date back to the 12th C, though most is later Gothic. 
• Fountain of Virtues (Tugendbrunnen) (on the north side of St Lawrence Church). Six virtuous dames spout water from their breasts, guarded by the figure of Justice. 
• Kunsthalle (a little further down the street from St Lawrence Church). Has rotating art exhibitions, hours & prices vary. 
• ⊙Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Kartäusergasse 1 (U-bahn 2, stop Opernhaus), ☎ +49 911 13310. Tu Th-Su 10:00-18:00, W 10:00-21:00. One of the largest museum of art and crafts in the German-speaking countries, with a collection ranging from pre-historic artefacts to 20th century art. Allow at least half a day. €8, concessions €5. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙Way of Human Rights (Straße der Menschenrechte). A monumental outdoor sculpture, opened on 24 October 1993. It is sited on the street between the new and old buildings of the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, connecting Kornmarkt street and the medieval city wall.  
• ⊙Neues Museum ("New Museum", State Museum for Art and Design in Nürnberg), Klarissenplatz (5 min walk from the central station), ☎ +49 911 2402069. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00, Th 10:00-20:00. Within Old Town but in a striking modern building, the museum shows art and design from 1945 to today. Permanent collection €4, concessions €3, Sundays €1; under 18s free. (updated Dec 2017)

Just outside the walls and easily combined with a stroll around Altstadt is the Transportation Museum.

• ⊙Verkehrsmuseum (Transportation Museum), Lessingstraße 6 (Subway #2, stop Opernhaus; outside city walls 500 m east of Hauptbahnhof). Tu-F 09:00-17:00 Sa Su and holidays 10:00-18:00. This museum contains two collections: the DB Museum (DB National Railway Museum) and the Museum for Communication. The railway museum explores the history of railways in Germany from 1835 - when the first railway connecting Nuremberg and Fürth opened - to today. There's a large collection of locomotives and rolling stock, extending outside, and it's a good place for families with children. The museum includes full scale replicas or originals from all eras of German rail travel, including a replica of the first ever locomotive running over German rails and a mock-up of the ICE. There's thoughtful coverage of the railways' role in German society, including their role in warfare and in the mass deportation to death of oppressed civilians. Labelling is only in German but there are free audioguides in English and other languages. The Museum for Communication is small by comparison, yet attempts to address the entire theme of communications. Some interesting items but the overall effect is superficial, with important concepts mentioned but not explored. Combined ticket €5, concessions €4. (updated Dec 2017)

Eat

Bratwurst: The city’s own pork sausage, the “Nürnberger Rostbratwürste”, is spicier than other sausages of the surrounding Franconia region, and half the size. So a serving in a restaurant is six Nürnberger (or three other Franconians), grilled or pan-fried, accompanied by sauerkraut or potato salad. A light bite on the street is three Nürnberger in a bread roll - ask for “Drei im Weggla”. “Nürnberger Rostbratwürste” is a protected name and they may only be manufactured here.

Another way of cooking these sausages is to stew them in a broth of vinegar, onions and spices. This is called "Sauren Zipfeln" – “sour corners” - because of the broth stains in the corners of your mouth.

There are many other styles of sausage and ways of preparing them. “Pressack” is like salami, sliced and eaten with mustard. The “Nürnberger Stadtwurst” go well with farmhouse bread and beer. “Stadtwurst mit Musik” means they're sliced, and heaped with vinegar and raw onion. so guess where the “Musik” will be coming from, 30 minutes later.

Looking for places that serve sausages in Nuremberg is like looking for water in Venice. Three outlets (among many) that specialise in them are Zum Gulden Stern and Bratwursthäusle (both listed below), and Bratwurstglöcklein as you enter Old Town from the railway station.

Lebkuchen: if you want to eat it here, buy a package labelled Bruch: broken. It's cheaper, and the quality is fine, but it's second-run stuff that they can't market as souvenirs. Other confections are:

Eierzucker – delicate white biscuits, often in shapes, eg like a horse

Kirschenmännla - cherry casserole with loose dough

Schneeballen – "snowballs", thin dough baked in lard, with powdered sugar. Often handed out to guests at ceremonies such as baptisms, confirmations or weddings.

Budget

Many food stalls and fast food restaurants can be found along Königstraße leading from the main station into the old town.

One stand is in the middle of the street perpendicular to the front of the Lorenzkirche. Several are also in Lorenzstraße (coming from the pedestrian zone, that is the street starting strait after the roundabout behind the Lorenz square. Amonst others, good places are:

• ⊙Suppdiwupp, Lorenzer Straße 27, ☎ +49 911 235858 00. M-Th 11:00-18:00, F 11:00-16:00, Sa 12:00-17:00. Great soups and hotpots served with fresh traditional style bread; the offerings change and there are not many dishes, but usually everybody should find something along her/his taste on the menu. (updated May 2017)

Mid-range

• ⊙Historische Bratwurstküche - Zum Guldenen Stern, Zirkelschmiedsgasse 26 (located in a small pedestrian zone in the Lorenz district, near Jacobsplatz, walkable distance (ca. 10 minutes) from the central station), ☎ +49 911 2059288. Restaurant in an old timber-framed house specializing in roasted sausages. Oldest sausage restaurant in the world, since 1419. €7.50 for six sausages, €11.50 for ten. (updated Apr 2017)
• ⊙Goldenes Posthorn, Glöckleinsgasse 2 (subway #2/21, stop Lorenzkirche), ☎ +49 911 225153. daily 11:30 - 22:30, last orders 21:30. Traditional restaurant in the old city centre. Founded in 1498. (updated Dec 2017)
• ⊙Bratwursthäusle, Rathausplatz 1 (located just a few meters off Hauptmarkt towards the castle, next to the St. Sebald church), ☎ +49 911 227695. M-Sa 10:00-23:00. Restaurant in the old city centre specializing in roasted sausages. You can see many tourists there as it's one of the most frequented places to have a "Bratwurst" (grilled sausage). One of the most common packages is "Drei im Weckla" (three [sausages] in a bread roll). €5.50 for six sausages. 
• ⊙Heilig Geist Spital, Spitalgasse 16, ☎ +49 911 221761. Mainly local cuisine. Historic dining room situated over the river Pegnitz. €6.70 for six sausages. 
• ⊙Steichele, Hotel & Weinrestaurant., Knorrstraße 2-8 (subway #1/11, stop Weisser Turm), ☎ +49 911 202280. Local cuisine. The Steichele has the opportunity to try, dink and buy selected wines from "Franken", the "Pfalz", "Südtirol" and many more producing regions of Germany. 
• Zum Spießgesellen, Rathausplatz 4, ☎ +49 911 23555525.
• ⊙Albrecht-Dürer-Stube, Albrecht-Dürer-Straße 6, ☎ +49 911 2272 09. M-Sa 18;00-00:00, F Su also 11:30-14:30; closed on Su in June, July & August, warm dishes until 00:00. A very traditional Franconian restaurant, frequented by locals and tourists alike. It is a good choice if you want to have some hearty local food in an unpretentious atmosphere. As the venue is small and popular, it is often necessary to have an advance reservation. (updated Nov 2016)

Splurge

• ⊙Würzhaus, Kirchenweg 3a, ☎ +49 911 93734 55. Tu-F 11:30-14:00, from 18:00; Sa from 18:00. Franconian lunch, on evenings a rather upscale à la carte offering (as of groups of 8, a special menu can be prepared) (updated Oct 2016)

Sleep

Inside the range of 4 km:

• ⊙   Hotel Agneshof Nürnberg, Nürnberg

  Rad konnte im Seminarraum abgestellt werden (wurde abgeschlossen)

• ⊙   Jugendherberge Nürnberg, Nürnberg, PC V
• ⊙   PrivatHotel Probst, Nürnberg, PC IV - V

  Fahrradgarage

• ⊙   Das Steichele, Nürnberg, PC VI
• ⊙   Hotel Victoria, Nürnberg, PC VI - VII
• ⊙   Five Reasons, Nürnberg, PC III
• ⊙   Hotel Prinzregent, Nürnberg, PC V - VII
• ⊙   Ringhotel Loewʹs Merkur, Nürnberg, PC VI - VIII
• ⊙   Hotel garni Klughardt, Nürnberg, PC V - VI