Cycle Tour Camino Portugues (Costal) 2019

Porto is Portugal's second largest city and the capital of the Northern region, and a busy industrial and commercial center. The city itself isn't very populous (about 240,000 inhabitants), but the Porto metropolitan area has some 1,500,000 inhabitants in a 50 km radius.

The city was built along the hills overlooking the Douro river estuary, and its historical center was awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO in 1996. It has been continuously inhabited since at least the 4th Century, when the Romans referred to it as Portus Calle, which is the origin of the entire country's name.

Understand

History

The city is officially styled "a muito nobre, sempre leal e invicta cidade do Porto" (the very noble, always faithful, and invincible city of Porto). This is usually shortened to "a Cidade Invicta" (the invincible city) a title won because of Porto's unparalleled resistance against Napoleonic troops during the Peninsular war. Residents of Porto are nicknamed the Tripeiros, or tripe eaters. This is based on the legend of the city's inhabitants going without meat in order to provision the fleet (which left from Porto) that left to conquer Ceuta in North Africa in 1415. As the story goes, they had to subsist on tripe soup, which is a specialty of the city.

The city is quite varied architecturally, with medieval as well as modern living side by side. Porto's geography is hard on the feet, but pleasant to the eye. The city is extremely hilly, with many buildings built into a cliff face that overlooks the river. Stairs cut into the stone run up and down the cliff face and offer a laborious but rewarding walking tour. Across the river from Porto proper, in the suburb of Gaia, are located the warehouses of notable Porto wine companies, such as Cálem, Ferreira, Fonseca, Sandeman, Kopke and others.

People

Citizens of Porto, while definitely Portuguese, hold themselves apart culturally from the rest of the country, as is expressed in the often heard phrase "o Porto é uma nação" (Porto is a nation). Outsiders often consider Porto to be more crass and mercantile than the rest of the country, and the inhabitants to be somewhat lacking in social graces. This is likely because the city has historically been dominated by Portuguese bourgeoisie and English trading factions rather than the nobility. The Portuenses, to use the correct term for the inhabitants, of course disagree, regarding themselves with some justification as being the economic heart of the nation. As the saying goes, "Porto works, Braga Prays, Coimbra studies, and Lisbon gets the money."

While the local attitude is friendly, to outsiders it is worth noting that locals can respond literally to questions, which may seem slightly off-putting to the uninitiated. An example of this would be to ask in a bar if they have a menu (for food) and to receive a straight 'no' as a response. It's after further questions that one can find out that the establishment doesn't sell food. Such a response is not considered rude, it is merely direct and literal.

If you speak in Spanish to a local, you will be largely understood and as a rule they will freely converse with you, but from time to time, more so with the older generation, you may be politely reminded that you are in Portugal and the native language is Portuguese.

See

Porto is a mysterious city that reveals its charm to the visitor through time. Take your time, wander through the mazes and alleys of the city. Take in the old, bohemian spirit of the city. Hike through the Ribeira and Foz do Douro regions (the latter, at sunset). Porto may not be in every tourist's Iberian Peninsula itinerary, but it's well worth a visit if you want to see a city that has changed economically, but that has kept its old traditions, something that is being forgotten in Europe today.

If you want to visit several museums, consider the Porto Card which provides free access to several museums and further discounts, optionally also free public transport access.

City centre

• Palácio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace), Rua Ferreira Borges, 4050-253. It also contains the most impressive Arab room in the country. There is also a Port wine tasting room. It was built in the 19th century on the grounds of the destroyed old cloisters of the adjacent São Francisco church. €7.50 adults, €4 concessions.
• Sé do Porto (Porto Cathedral), Terreiro da Sé, 4050-573. This Romanesque cathedral was originally completed in the 13th century. Later on Baroque alterations were made in the 17th and 18th century. The cathedral is located on top of a hill from where you also have great views over the city and the river. Free. Adjacent monastery €4.
• Port Wine Institute, Rua Ferreira Borges 27, 4050-253,  ☎ +351 222 071669. Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat-Sun closed. A small exhibition about Port wine and it's certification process. Samples of a small variety of Port wines can be bought. Guided tastings and tours to the laboratories can be arranged. Free.
• City Hall, Avenida dos Aliados.
• Igreja de São Francisco (Church of Saint Francis) (adjacent to Palácio da Bolsa). A Gothic church with later alterations of the interior decorations in Baroque style.

Baixa (downtown)

• ⊙Mercado do Bolhão, Rua Formosa. Sun closed. A traditional market of fruits, vegetables, fish and meat. 

West Baixa

• ⊙Livraria Lello, Rua das Carmelitas (Near Praça dos Leões and the Universidade do Porto). It's an old bookshop with an amazing interior and spiral staircase, where you can also have a coffee or glass of port. Voted as one of the most beautiful bookshops in Europe. To get in you have to buy a €3 voucher at the kiosk opposite the entrance, which can be used towards book purchases. 
• Torre dos Clérigos (Clerics' Tower), Rua São Filipe Nery, 4050-546,  ☎ +351 222 001729. Panoramic views from this baroque tower. 240 steps to the top. It is best to get there early since there is not a lot of space on the viewing platform. You might even have to wait for some time before you are allowed to climb up the stairs. €3 (includes entry to a small exhibition at the lower levels of the tower).
• ⊙National Museum Soares dos Reis, Palácio dos Carrancas, Rua D. Manuel II, 4050-342. Museum displaying Portuguese art. Founded in 1833. 
• ⊙Centro Português de Fotografia (Portuguese Photography Museum), Edifício da Ex-Cadeia e Tribunal da Relação do Porto, Largo Amor de Perdição, 4050-008. Housed in a beautiful building in the centre of the city. Free. 

São Nicolau

South city center

• ⊙Ribeira (Riverfront). The part of the city near the river, which is also a good place to start visiting the World Heritage area; to the other side of the river you will see the Ribeira de Gaia, a similar area from the city of Vila Nova de Gaia (the two are only separated by the river) and where you could find the Port Wine Cellars. 
• ⊙ , Largo Dr. Pedro Vitorino 2, 4050-468 (Located in the Church of St. Lawrence (known as the Cricket Church (Igreja Grilo) after the nickname of the religious order that took ownership in 1780). Beginning at the riverfront, head north on R de Mercadores and look for the Igreja Grilo signs directing you into the delightfully narrow streets that lead to the church. Best approached on foot.),  ☎ +351 223 395020.  
• The 6 bridges connecting Porto to Gaia over the Douro river, many of them providing an excellent view to the river.

West of city center

• ⊙Museu do Vinho do Porto (Port Wine Museum), Rua de Monchique 45-52, 4050-394.  
• ⊙Pavilhão Rosa Mota. A multi purpose pavilion with nice gardens to rest, also known as "Palácio de Cristal". (updated Sep 2015)
• ⊙Museu Romântico (nearby the Pavilhão Rosa Mota). A house where the king of Italy stayed while on exile. 

Boavista

North-west of city center

• ⊙Casa da Música (House of Music), Avenida da Boavista 604-610, 4149-071 (Take the metro lines A, B, C, E or F and get off at "Casa da Música"), Box office ☎ +351 220 120220, tour enquiries ☎ +351 220 120210. Designed by Rem Koolhaas and OMA. Guided tour available in English at 11:00, 16:00 and 17:00 for €6/person (free for children under 12) which take about 1 hour. 
• ⊙Fundação de Serralves (Modern Art Museum), Rua D. João de Castro 210, 4150-417 (Take bus 201 (from 06:00-21:00) Sá da Bandeira -> Viso, bus 203 (from 06:00-21:00) Marquês -> Castelo do Queijo, bus 502 (from 06:00-01:00) Bolhão -> Matosinhos Mercado, or bus 504 (from 06:00-00:45) Boavista -> Norteshopping). A contemporary museum designed by the famous architect Álvaro Siza, with a huge garden/park and an Art Deco Villa. When visiting this foundation you can visit the exhibitions, relax at the park, have lunch at the restaurant, bar or tea house and explore the shops or the library. There is also a farm at the southern end of the park. €8.50 museum and park, €4 park only. 50% discount for 65+ and Porto card holders. Free on Sundays 10:00-13:00 for students and under 18. 

Foz do Douro

This is the area around the ocean front just north of the mouth of the Douro River. You can rent a bike and cycle along the riverfront and then the beach to that area.

• ⊙Castelo Do Queijo (At the western end of Avenida da Boavista).